Need a Fit Doctor
As many of the regulars know, I've been feeling a little in a rut over my fits recently. This thread is to help me gain a clearly idea of my style, and focus on using what i have instead of buying more clothes.
Brand Inspiration: The brands that speak to me the most right now are honestly ALD, Corridor, and 4S Designs, with some minor streetwear inspo (graphic tees) as well. Some of my inspo from their lookbooks (I don't find corridor's styling particularly compelling, though I really like their clothes).
Inspo album link: https://imgur.com/a/0Kb1A8b
Imgur
Untitled Album
244 Replies
working on inspo album upload
Post some fits of yours you like and some fits of yours you don’t too
Because you know your inspo better than us, are there some really common and basic elements you can identify in terms of color, material, and fit/silhouette?
Like reduce what you want to look like down to one or two words for each of those domains
Not necessarily what you like, what you see for yourself based on what you're actually comfortable with wearing
lemme get some things uploaded, working on inspo album, then ill go over my fits and add them on
thank you for making a thread that's exciting
inspo album up there, in a nutshell, preppy streetwear fits with loud items
lemme find my fits
Fits I like:
Bricks:
can you reduce preppy, streetwear, and loud down even further
loud neo-prep?
same thing in less words?
more specific maybe
those three words still mean a lot of things, some of which are cohesive and many which are not
lemme think, im struggling to articulate it
it's okay, just reduce reduce reduce
prep could be as simple as collared shirt
streetwear could become sneakers
I have one opinion but I will wait until you complete this exercise
loud could be just one color like hi vis orange
statement shirts?
im struggling hard ngl
do you see statement shirts as a foundation of your style? or something to add over an otherwise tried and true unf template
foundation is probably casual prep
ive always struggled with a dichotomy of my love for streetwear and my love for prep lol
as we can see from your inspo folder
yup
its a little stretched
those two things don't have to be
unmeshable
yeah like ald clearly blends those well
i think you're actually quite close personally
and thats a large reason I'm really drawn to ALD
they are probably closest to my ideal style, just like ALD + louder shirts sometimes lol?
not that the rico is quiet
I think what ALD does is mix lux prep with casual streetwear elements
The high end feel of super nice slacks with sports gear
I think dialing in the prep stuff so that it’s really being nailed then putting a twist on it is why it works
mmm, i think thats something really useful, is the outfit should be enhanced by the twist (loud shirt, unconventional buttoning, sportwear) but if you just played it straight it would still be a clean fit
and i think thats something about my fits that i like, if you basically changed the statement pieces for something much more boring, the fit would still be cohesive (theres a few on the edge of this, perhaps too crowded with ideas)
I'd like you to start with just one statement piece or twist per fit
having three really competes for attention
sounds good
this fit is an example of what I mean
ya the camo and pants and shoes all clash
yes! there you go
black jeans and white shoes would improve this fit drastically
Maybe! Only one way to find out
definetly struggling a bit with summer too
its been hot so no jacket
only shirts
my two cents on summer fits
I've been taking the heat as an opportunity to pay closer attention to how I'm wearing something as opposed to what I'm wearing
layering fits are super fun, but I've really enjoyed the challenge of making the basic format of shirt/pants/shoes more visually interesting while it's been too hot to layer
i.e. focusing on what shirt buttons I have undone and why, exploring crops, etc
doing more with less
it's a lot easier for me to mess around with details when I'm not wearing as much
think thats a great point, ive jsut been relying on only oversized, and its actually why i haven't worn my jeans in a while, cause they are more straight leg than baggy
i should crop some shirts i have and don't wear
like one of my shitty oversized oxfords, cut the sleeves to be short-sleeve, crop it at waist, and play with it as a summer shirt that can be an interesting siholutte change in, for exmaple, the otherwise basic fit i posted to show how easy converse was to use
I've ripped this off pretty hard
im digging it, the cropped tees i see on tik-tok are also tempting me
thtoughts on cutting an oxford to short-sleeve?
i have a red j-crew oxford i don't tend to reach for that im thinking could be cool cropped
could be cool
I've never seen it done but I'm sure there's inspo out there
might play with it
raw hem pants are fun too but I feel like you already know that having been around here as long as you have
ya, i have a pair of raw hem jeans
thanks a ton, gonna refer to this thread and focus on what sal said
and then something that I've seen @chuckflowers do that I think is cool is tie/drape a sweater around your shoulders. I think it's a fun way to continue to incorporate pieces that it's too hot to wear
ive tried it like this fit, just struggle to find it comfy
yeah I've never been able to pull it off
funnily enough though one of the ALD employees was ripping it off when i stopped in the store
Oh yeah a raw hemmed shirt could be good for you, adding a bit of detail without overcomplicating
wait where is its from? I am looking for a nicer fitting tanktop than uniqlo one this looks kinda nice
I would suggest just cropping the body first and seeing how you like it before chopping the sleeves as well. Also consider the material
thats an ALD fit-pic, i can guarantee that the tank is way more expensive than its worth
ah damn, but thx for the quick answer
sleeves are likely too long on me anyway, but good point, its 100% cotton so should raw hem well
just try a few different cheap brands until you find one you like
yeah cropped body long sleeves is a fun way to mess with proportions a bit. and yeah cotton should be good, made the mistake of raw hemming a woven linen shirt once and it did not work well haha
Just an observation a lot of he ones you are meh about are more neutral I think colour wise
a lot of them have proportion issues
I often find that a lot of meh fits are like 50% top 50% trouser
Cropped sleeves could be cool could be bad diy vibe, depends on the fit I think
Chopped sleeve with a messy roll could be a good greaser vibe
i feel you
ill play around a bit
may be worth using the shirt to learn how to shorten sleeves
and if i fuck it up
Agree with kiss about 50/50 porps
then i crop em
I don't know why but the golden ratio is just a thing
It’s easier to have and interesting fit with lowkey pieces if you’re more 1/3 2/3
my jeans both sit at my waist
and thats partially why i haven't been using them as much
want some higher waisted jeans
Unironically the big shirt little pants big pants little shirt meme
lol, ill play with it
Good template
I personally find the first one of them so much harder than the second one
At least in standard western menswear all items that I can come up with to create that look well are very seasonal
I’m not sure what you mean
I don’t wear shorts in the winter but otherwise they both seem season agnostic to me
Like to me the two obvious ways to achive that is either with shorts or with coats and to me coats are a winter thing and shorts are for summer
I think big sweatshirt works for big top too
Or boxy jacket
I have an oversized cropped sweatshirt I wear a lot in the fall/spring to ride my bike
You would benefit from more structured pants
Agreed
Ie trousers
Pleat time
Or creased
Something that creates an actual line down your leg
Even though sal hates front creases
I love a crease, makes wide pants more structured and big versus wide side to side
so in the interest of doing a buying freeze, would you say pleating the pants i have may make sense, eg: the giant chinos
im slightly worried about making them too small
Post pic
Adding pleats to pants that already fit in the waist is a little tricky
You could just iron them and see how they look with a crease
prob will do that instead
you can see them in some of my fits i posted above, the white chinos
main problem is i unironically have massive thighs for my waist size
Oh those ones
Tbh the fabric is too casual for a pleat or crease imo
its a cotton twill, may not come accross in pictures
re: more structured trousers. Carhart / duck canvas tends to be thicker and more rigid cottons. Rather than going the pleat route or ironing in a front crease
you can also add visual weight/change the drape by cuffing over x2 using the seam at the end of the pants leg.
I think wool trousers or something in that level of fine work better with creases or pleats than twills
Linen works with pleats in the summer
But they should be huge
if we're integrating with his current wardrobe as-is i'd be warry adding finer weaved wools, if that's what you mean by "fine work".
though i may be talking past you / comprehending wrong here
i have wool trousers actually
but they are winter
lol
very heavy wool
i have huge linen pleated pants, you can see them in the 3rd fit
No you got it, I think they would work with the intentional culture clash kind of thing but they call for having some nice leather shoes too and now we’re on the slippery slope
They need some love somehow, the pleats don’t translate
What does the top block look like
love a good slippery slope. not always a fallacy...
Charcoal flannel trousers for fall, tobacco linen for summer
I’m always pro buying nice shoes but that’s my cross to bear
Casatlantic khaki or white as well
@.kyn has some really nice big pants that are I believe linen and pleated
this thread is way too big to catch up on but im praying for you
my cream linen ones are hermes, the black pleated ones are powha (https://www.grailed.com/listings/42942220-avant-garde-x-boris-bidjan-saberi-powha-deviation-black-boiled-linen-trouser), my biggest most pleated ones are yohji gaba tho (not linen) (https://www.grailed.com/listings/23178226-groundy-x-yohji-yamamoto-yohji-gabardine-hakama-pants)
As long as they're not paired with those shark tooth sole sneakers I'm supportive
Hahahaha
Coward
im scared of what i might find
Yeah the shape of these do so much work
Might be wrong for unf but it’s the right idea of what we are saying with structured
Shapely trousers
These are in line with what I was imagining
the casatlantic trousers fuckin rip
When everyone's ready I think we should discuss unf's choice of hats
It seems to be a pillar of style for him that at times feels successful and other times less so
some of your outfits do have some proportional issues and some cuts/fabrics that aren't flattering. I think as other have said you could use some higher quality pants that drape nicely, the pants in your outfits sometimes look creased and cheap instead of weighted like in all your inspo.
I also think you are sometimes wearing a cut that is too standard fitting, not committed enough to slim or oversized. Or you're pairing slightly oversized with slightly oversized which looks sloppy instead of intentional.
in general my experience with fashion has been about improving your eye gradually over time and learning to trust your instincts to guide your personal style towards what inspires you, so i think you're on your way as you continue to iterate
Loving this thread.
i got loafers + moc toe leather boots
sorry was showering
more than just clothes to life unfortunately
Black Ficus Linen Clothing
palazzo pants men's Archives - Black Ficus Linen Clothing
shark tooth sneakers fuck thanks
oh those are nice pants...
they don't have a back pocket
and it is a massive issue
i have enough left over from hemming them to probably make a patch pocket but im worried about fucking it up
simply carry around a tote
max inventory slots
i have a crossbody coming lol
>linen
i love linen but i hate how wrinkled they get 😦
iron bby
love how wrinkly they get
i am worried about how to translate my current pants here, cause i see what you are saying in my inspo
lots of structured front-crease/pleated pants
meanwhile the giant chinos are pretty unstructured, and the black fatigues are also a tad bit unstructured (though a favorite of mine)
orslow fatigues are fine, and i have a pleated pair of Uniqlo U pants as well
i could try to buy some pleated slacks off ebay
keep it cheap
on hats, i think its selection is my main issue, i wear em cause as you may have noticed, if i style my hair its rather unconventional, and most days i don't want to bother putting in product to WFH, so i put on a hat to keep it out of my face
i have a bunch, various ballcaps and a few buckets
I think the ficus pants could work but you should try more tucked in shirt fits with them since the top block is where they shine
Tucked in undershirt with open overshirt
Or loose tuck big shirt
eg
Yeah
lol old enough i still blurred my face
Sorry if I'm repeating what's already been said because there were so many comments I just skimmed. I think your top block can be too simple/shapeless/long and throws off the proportions (like someone said already, 50/50 split top and bottom not the best).
You can tuck shirts in obviously, but with a lot of the button ups you're wearing, for summer I think it would look better if you unbuttoned them and had a tank or tee underneath (like your ald stripe shirt fit). Not only does this give more visual breakup, but it gives you more room to play with textures, layering, and accessories like your necklace or belts without adding too much clothing in the hot summer
artist diff, forsure, i have the SFC tanks too and should use them anyway
or use unbutton on some of the longer shirts to break the siholutte like the recent waywt post, and
basically break the 50-50 im creating with just untucked shirts
also looking through the inspo album you posted, I think putting outfits together with a color palette could be helpful since almost all the outfits in there are tonal or working from one cohesive palette. e.g. the colors in right are all pulling different colors from the camo, which makes it look cohesive without being monochromatic
so if you use one statement piece, picking your clothes around colors that complement that piece could pull everything together
understood
I also think independent of silhouette
I don’t see so so much preppy re: preppy streetwear
just pure streetwear?
I think if mixing those elements is a goal, then you’re missing “classic” items that can establish that motif
Yeah I think that maybe the streetwear prep aspect of ALD is distrusting your vision
Your closet much closer to contemporary streetwear vs neo prep
mmm, i think also my winter style
which isn't showcased as well here
is clouding it, since its way more preppy
That could be it
This is very summer heavy
prep wise, i do have some oxfords i just don't wear em a ton (should wear em more) cause of shitty collar roll lmao, but i think some pleated pants is defiently a core piece i need more of
lemme post some of my winter fits i like
PSI is a bit of a recurring issue, but i've also hemmed/raw hemmed a lot of these pants since these were taken
Silhouette is much more coherent and so is styling
Summer just sucks!
i think im also trying to push myself more though
in the summer
so basically, im hearing use pleated pants
I like a lot of what you wear but I hate the chunky single cuff
like i said, a lot of that is gone away cause ive hemmed the pants since these pictures
Yeah I’d be interested to see some more tucked in shirt fits and working in some pleats
And I think aiming even more refined with the prep/dress elements will help too
i should be able to find some pleats on ebay for cheap
look for the polo hammond pant, pleated, wide-ish and super cheap on ebay if you're in the US
i also remember you said you're on the shorter side, in which case i'd look at the beams plus 2 pleats. i'm around 5'8 so the short inseam actually fits me pretty well.
ya im 5'7"-5'8", good to know
don't know about finding a beams+ 2pleat for cheap unfortunately, but ill keep an eye out
Probably cheap if you proxy it
well ofc, gonna be a bit before another proxy though
proxying isn't cheap cause of how much i would buy lol
Relatable
oh yeah for sure, i kinda meant the hammond is the cheaper option and also the beams are worth a look.
ya, its a good tip forsure
btw how do you find sizing on the perforated tanks? worth going up one or?
i went with my normal, they list measurements, they listed the large for chests 40-42" and I've measured my chest as 41"
think its better tight anyway
well, i swear they used to
maybe they changed the sizing on the restock lol
ya it says large is 42-44 but measures 41" so that sounds right
so personally no, wouldn't recommend sizing up, it is a wife pleaser
i prob won't use an app but ya, think i need to find more ways to use my clothes as well, thank you
appreciate the feedback
i’m surprised you classified this as a brick cause imo it’s not. there’s strong color cohesion. and as other users have said, your PSI can use some tweaking
PSI here is good because the structured pants sit on the structured chelsea boots really well.
highlighting this fit you like because the docs could exponentially improve the cohesion of some of your bricks
like this one, the sneakers are way too jarring and if you swapped in the docs and lost the hat you’d be pattern mixing with alot more intention
docs are derbies to be clear
part of the reason i don't wear em a ton is they are probably the wrong size and i should sell em and size down or figure out a different insole, but good looks
big appreciate the feedback
think i need to improve at picking what shoe to use in what fit
ya it’s def something you get comfy with over time. and i get it, i love a good pattern mixing moment and have alot of statement pieces in my wardrobe. as i’ve gotten older i’ve been sticking to 2 statement pieces max
im starting focusing on the structured pants, less pattern mixing (single statement piece in a fit) and looking into alt silhouettes (gonna be lots of 1/3-2/3 in the summer)
got some longer term advice to switch up the glasses when it makes sense for my insurance as well
+1
+2
So glad I refollowed this thread
@smiiles. you're a good guy for making this
i needed the help and the regulars are good
i got a lot of help and have a good path forward imo
wait 6 months and I'll make this thread all over again
this is a good thread, you've really been doing a lot of thinking about this and i 1000% support it
just to make sure I understand what's going on -- you're looking for a way to be blending your preferences of prep and streetwear in a way that feels cohesive to you and your personality?
basically, obviously todays fit was basically just streetwear but in general i (want) to lean heavily towards prep with it
and in general improve my style
hm
general thoughts that may help
1. I see you're trying to add a ton of interesting pieces to your fits, but theyre often competing for attention and sometimes clashing
I think rather than starting with multiple pieces liek that, start with a boring fit and think of what interesting pieces you can swap out to add visual interest
it'll help with cohesion imo
todays fit was the result of me trying to use these pants in a way cohesive with what im working on rn to be more specific, and agreed, the shoes were a mistake today
the reason i asked what your thinking was with the fit was because I couldn't track the logic behind what you were going for; the intention just wasn't clear enough
question for you: do you have enough basic pieces in your wardrobe?
or maybe i should say neutral pieces
honestly, not entirely, ive been looking to try to snag them from ebay and such. I have lots of neutral pants, but many lack structure. In general I've been looking for plain colored pleated high-waisted slacks. For shirts i have a few summer ones, but not enough (hence why I reached for tan today), though I also have oversized tees in a variety of colors i could lean on as well
i almost certainly have plenty of basic tees, just in an oversized cut
if you find yourself purchasing a lot of clothing a little impulsively, i'd recommend slwoing down and only purchasing if you can see the item working in at least 3 different vibes of fits
thatll help with versatility and making sure you have enough basics/bridging items
i have more thoughts but gotta see a patient real quick
no rush, this thread isn't going anywhere
Literal fit doctor
ok back
2nd point is with regards to finding your own style/blending prep and streetwear
like what Sal was saying, try to refine more and more the individual aspects of what you like about prep and streetwear
is it the identity of individual pieces themselves? i.e. MA-1 bombers, OCBDs, AF1s, etc
is it the materials? i.e. oxford cloth, chino fabric, nylon, etc.
is it the colours? i.e. pastels, go-to-hell salmon/nantucket red, neon saturated colours like in 90s windbreakers, etc.
the more you can refine, the more you have building blocks to decide what you like and how to combine them
good looks, definetly initially both piece identity and colors
3rd point: when attempting to subvert expectations, try to find the goldilocks zone where it's just unexpected enough to be interesting, and yet not so stark a contrast that it looks unintentional
this point is admittedly rather dependent on the audience and their understanding of things
hence why a fit can be sick on MFA and super strange out in Bumfuck, Nowhere
you need a certain amount of cohesiveness that it's intentional
Ya, I'm definitely still struggling with cohesiveness
take this fit for example
(absolutely tooting my own horn tyvm)
what do you think the thinking was behind the fit
do you think it's cohesive? do you think it's unexpected? how so?
Definitely both cohesive and unexpected. In this fit I read the it's the items themselves are cohesive, but the patterns are what are unexpected
keep extrapolating on that
what's the overall vibe of the fit?
what are the influences?
describe the colours, the shapes, the patterns, the silhouette
and try to think about how each decision shapes the direction of the fit
Genuinely I think this is overthinking it
And taking things in a direction that is probably not helpful
just the way my brain works, def may not be for everyone
Reminding me of remy trying to explain food to his brother when mf just wanted to eat cheese
unironically my favourite scene in that movie so this explains a lot haha
Lmao
I don't have the depth of past fashion and associations to draw from so imma struggle with this
It’s not necessary imo
Understanding the vibe of pieces is enough
You don’t build a fashion house without a few bricks
It's feels suitish, and that's kinda how I operate, does it feel like what I want
Very much a vibes guy for fashion
I think that’s fine. I think @evolsirhc is someone who I really appreciate because he’s also not someone particularly interested in “Fashion” per se but has nailed down what he wants and likes and just does that
I'm interested in fashion as whole, but ya the nuance doesn't interest me personally in how to build fits
I think the takeaway from today is mostly tones in color schemes
I have a tee I could swap in on today, swap the shoes for something less loud (my boots were the obvious choice) and let it roll
As always don’t get cute with it
Keep it simple
u can get cute with it if u want
maybe even a little silly
haha thank you TGO
Do what looks good and not what looks bad
all these outfits u posted look nice idk
My advice if you’re having trouble with styling is to check out stores that stock multiple brands you like
i think the ones you posted as being bad mostly just look bad bc that sweater vest is a little funny looking
and would be cuntier with nothing underneath it
As opposed to just looking at lookbook a for a single brand
rather than trying weird little layering things
people telling u some weird symptomatic checklist about how to determine the course of an outfit or whatever
are lovingly being kinda dumb abt this
when i get a new thing i just try it on with a billion different things until i like it
Same
Playing dress up in the mirror is important
u dont need to do like
vibe mathematics
dog is yr bedroom decorated like a natty wine store
I did that too
Thanks, I think I'm on the right track overall, just got hit details a bit more
Untuck …. Ur hiding that it’s big here
Not bad though
That was the point 😭
But ya, I'm vibes based using the mirror
But ya, @meatwater just told me to tuck the sweater when I try to use it when I saw them in NY, it's just be like 90 all the time so I haven't wanted to play with it
honestly i dont know if there's a way to make that sweater vest work
I don’t think tuck is bad here but would be better with rise
I mean I could just say fuck it and crop it
Or sell it
Still torn on that
But also yeah I’m not convinced it’s worth playing with the sweater vest that much
i think it would be very obvious if you cropped it. which is not necessarily a bad thing
i think it would be hotter as a womenswear piece lol
Yeah true
i would turn that shit out i’m sorry
I should throw it on grailed
Fair enough
Wasn't meant to be a reply but ya
also, gently
fix yr posture cowboy
Lmao yes
Ty all again
I kept the bottles I liked and had no sense of interior design haha
Vibe is a totally valid way of thinking, and ultimately where you wanna be for sure
have you tried describing the overall vibe of the interior and its influences
College boy
Influences: frats and alcoholism
Put a candle on these bottles and it becomes more socially acceptable
what do you think the thinking was behind the fit
do you think it's cohesive? do you think it's unexpected? how so?
expound on this fit. extrapolate on this fit. think about it with your brain. suck me and fuck me about it.
We also need to consider the role that the soju plays in the composition
Oh my god
It even has a watermark
my brain no longer registers the word tuck as referring to clothing which makes every tucking conversation on here sound real weird
Lmao understandable
tucking is bad fashion imo
The Venn diagram between mfa and some trans women discord is tuck and brick but just a lot of confusion about what they mean
but which tuck?
no?
hope this clears it up
arf arf grrrrr woof
wruff wuf wrauf aaaawruff
meeeeeeeow
ew
thats kind of weird ngl
Oh god oh fuck
That's why you can't let furries into your community
yea
kind of weird and offputting to act like a cute little puppydog and get pet by a bunch of people and have them tell you youre doing suuuuuuch a good job and call you cute when you bark for them
what were we talking about?