MK3 Support
I am using a MK3S Bear clone from Fysetc and need support, because I am struggling with the config. What I already did is importing the flexplate config. Some things i noticed:
urgent:
- printer primes on right side 1-2mm away from bed. I dont know why, but i think it should prime on the left side, because after priming my printer tries to move to the right, whats not possible of course! Thats why i cant start any print.
more or less urgent:
- Unknown gcodes: M201, M203, M205 => Prusaslicer Marlin legacy
- Bed and nozzle dont heat simultaneously, bed first then nozzle
- When everything is already heated, printer waits till nozzle is cooled down to 150 °C and then starts with leveling
- portable input shaper is missing (well, just an config to add here 😉 )
- harsh start moves (during leveling, only y?) maybe effect of max_accel?
added to printer.cfg:
[printer]
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 10000
max_accel_to_decel: 5000
square_corner_velocity: 5
138 Replies
I can help with all of these.
printer primes on right side 1-2mm away from bed. I dont know why, but i think it should prime on the left side, because after priming my printer tries to move to the right, whats not possible of course! Thats why i cant start any print.You need to adjust your position_min, position_max and position_endstop so that 0,0 is on the front left corner of the bed. (test this by homing and typing in 0,0 in the mainsail control interface)
Unknown gcodes: M201, M203, M205 => Prusaslicer Marlin legacyThese are not supported by klipper, they don't do anything useful anyway, you can ignore them. There's no "jerk" in klipper and klipper wants you to keep your printer limits in your config, not in your slicer (your printer should know and enforce it's limits, not the slicer).
Bed and nozzle dont heat simultaneously, bed first then nozzleThis is intended to give the chance for the bed to heat evenly and expand/contract before we start probing it and printing on it.
When everything is already heated, printer waits till nozzle is cooled down to 150 °C and then starts with levelingSee slicer setup: https://os.ratrig.com/docs/slicers#prusaslicer
portable input shaper is missing (well, just an config to add here 😉 )Also intended, and yes you can do that manually 🙂
harsh start moves (during leveling, only y?) maybe effect of max_accel?Correct, lower it if it bothers you, but higher accel = faster.
added to printer.cfg: [printer] max_velocity: 300 max_accel: 10000 max_accel_to_decel: 5000 square_corner_velocity: 5Yeah i'd lower that max accel, it's not a racecar, it's a prusa 😄
Slicer Configuration | RatOS
RatOS comes with STARTPRINT and ENDPRINT macros that you can call directly from your slicers. This way the printer knows how to start a print, and you can there easily switch between slicers without worrying if you changed anything in another slicer.
It also sounds like maybe your x axis might be inverted, confirm that the controls behave properly, see: https://os.ratrig.com/docs/configuration#verify-stepper-directions
Configuring RatOS | RatOS
RatOS only needs minimal configuration to work, but comes with a lot of optional functionality that you can enable manually.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Hi,
thank you for the fast anwer! I gave it a try, maybe I am doing something wrong.
I did, what you said and checked the position 0,0. Its in front/left (not right) corner. But primeline is printed at right side of bed when starting print. New to me is, when I home the printer, homing is finished in mid ob bed. I also checked the slicer. I only have PA settings for filament in there. I am also using the fast gyroid infill.
Some comments to your post:
You need to adjust your position_min, position_max and position_endstop so that 0,0 is on the front right corner of the bed. (test this by homing and typing in 0,0 in the mainsail control interface)
=> 0,0 is in front, left (not right). Position seems to be ok.
These are not supported by klipper, they don't do anything useful anyway, you can ignore them. There's no "jerk" in klipper and klipper wants you to keep your printer limits in your config, not in your slicer (your printer should know and enforce it's limits, not the slicer).
=> Ok, I will transfer my MXXX Macros to supress those errors 😉
This is intended to give the chance for the bed to heat evenly and expand/contract before we start probing it and printing on it.
=> Ok, do I understand it correcly, you heat them one by one, so at the end the bed has more time to "work"?
See slicer setup: https://os.ratrig.com/docs/slicers#prusaslicer
=> Thats what I did. Is there something else to look at? I dont know, why it tries to reach 150 °C, even when its already above it.
Also intended, and yes you can do that manually 🙂
=> Yes, no problem about that. I recognized it, because i found the normal adxl setup in there and missed the PIS.
Yeah i'd lower that max accel, it's not a racecar, it's a prusa
=> 😄 you are totally true. I set max settings in slicer not in config.
Slicer Configuration | RatOS
RatOS comes with STARTPRINT and ENDPRINT macros that you can call directly from your slicers. This way the printer knows how to start a print, and you can there easily switch between slicers without worrying if you changed anything in another slicer.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
With SuperSlicer I was able to start printing. But...
- Default is primeblob, it starts with primeline
- First i had massive underextrusion, restart of RatOS fixed that
- Had several times "Move out of range: 311.671 145.958 -0.812 [155.600]"
- Pinda is not directly over screws (dont know if it should).
rival-black•2y ago
The pinda does not reach the screws due to the offset so it try to reach the calibration points
The primeline should extrude over the right line across the Y axis, if you want the same behaviour than with prusaslicer for the primeline the macro that take care of that should be modified
About the profile, I would recomend to adapt the mk3s profile on superslicer withe similar values than the profile for the v-minion, anyway I will publish my profiles
Another important thing is to calibrate EM, PA and temperature for each material, also you need to calibrate the skew and the input shape for the machine
I’m sorry but I will be a little bit off because I was father last Saturday
You shouldn’t do that, over 240 mm/s the einsy will stop to work
In fact at 260 klipper will stop because the einsy is not able to work properly
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Congratulation and enjoy!!! Hopefully you are all healthy and take your time together:)
rival-black•2y ago
These are the speed settings which has been configured and tested
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
I printed with these settings without any problems, but will change back to what you mention and retry. At the moment i get MASSIVE layershifts... dont know why. Maybe because of the speed thinig 😉
Btw, I switched to SuperSlicer latest version. There i get errormessage which i described above. Then I switched to older SS and its gone. I think klipper needs to be updated for new SS.
rival-black•2y ago
Be sure that the belt tension is ok, I use to print with 120mm/s for inner perimeters, 80mm/s for external perimeters, and 240mm/s as the default speed
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
I changed the following and now bed/extruder dont crash into frame at the moment:
[stepper_x]
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 250
[stepper_y]
position_max: 210
[stepper_z]
position_max: 210
rival-black•2y ago
I didn’t update to the last version of ss
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Last is still beta from last week
rival-black•2y ago
The Z should be 214 because you need a little bit of gap for the tram-z macro
Also the position of the endstop should not be changed, must crash to know were is the limit
And are the same dimensions of the firmware from prusa
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Ok, will change back and slower down the printer as you described. Is everything stock at yours? I am using a bear...
rival-black•2y ago
The size are the same, I have tested with bear + bearexxa and with stock prusa
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Ok, perfect! Thats my Setup 😉
rival-black•2y ago
I will recommend to leave the default configuration and follow this guide for the calibration https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Ok, i changed all speed and acceleration settings ins SS and like you said in printer config too. My first print is running with RatOS!! 👍 I dont know why, but i use normal KIAUH klipper installatin now for more than one year and didn´t have those problems before!
Yes, already know this and use it 🙂
Ok, that one was better, but i had a y-layerhift now in layer 50 (printing 20x20x20 cube). Before almost every layer
rival-black•2y ago
Jus be sure that the belt tension is optimal, on the fail axis
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
y-belt is set to 80Hz. At what is yours?
Increased now to 90Hz for both. Could fast gyroid infill be a problem?
rival-black•2y ago
I use the tool released by prusa, I’ve never used the Hz meassure
Not really
I have tested it and not only me, there are another 4 people at least that I directly know
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Ok, then i will rerun with 90Hz belts 😉 I had never those issues before, so sorry about bothering you!
rival-black•2y ago
At which speed are you trying to print?
I know that one person that had a prusa bear with the belt tension adjusted with the mobile app for the Hz also had layers shift issues
Also I wouldn’t recommend the silent mode, is not enabled by default, if you have enabled consider to reduce the speed
rival-black•2y ago
Tou can try this profiles
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Layershift again, only in y-direction
No, i have not enabled it.
When layershift occurs, i hear a harsh start of y-bed.
Only difference in setup: Y with Turmberg belt, X with 'Gates belt
seems like you have in your speed profile much lower acc then me. but max acc in config is at 4k. do you use it somewhere else?
rival-black•2y ago
Not really
rival-black•2y ago
Printables.com
Tension Meter for the GT2 belts of i3 MK3S+ or Prusa MINI+ by Prusa...
The model of the tension meter helps you control the tension on the belt of your Prusa printer. | Download free 3D printable STL models
rival-black•2y ago
Also as you said the max accell is limited on the klipper cfg
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Yes, but in Slicer you use 2k as max acceleration. I used 4k... will print cube with you settings now 😉
rival-black•2y ago
Yes because my Y axis on the stock frame reports 2100 max accell on the input shaper tune vs the 11k of the bear frame
I don’t really have to many advices, just go step by step and if the mechanical assembly is ok the stock config released should works fine, after that is just to tune everything taking care of the hard limits
I will go back with the baby but will read later
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Ok, thank you 😉 Do you know, if there is somewhere another setting to handle the rought start?
rival-black•2y ago
Not really, just be conservative and try to solve the issue with the layer shifs, also I set the zoffset on every filament profile, because i use a profile for each steel sheet
You want less tension (lower hz not higher). You get layer shifts because your y motor has to work too much to overcome the extra friction incurred by the high tension. And yes, please use the tool instead of a spectrometer app 😄
The higher the accel the more risk of layer shifting.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Well i thought, i shoult tighten it, so belt will not slip. 90Hz is recommended for Bear. Will print the tool above and compare them 🙂
Belts won't slip unless they're so loose they're flapping around
The alternative is to lower your accel / speed till your layer shifts stop
Or raise the current of the motors, but i don't know how much those prusa motors can handle (and i don't know what model they are)
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Ok, thats definitely not the case. Print is started with tension tester.
I only wonder, why thats a problem for me now. Before switching to RatOS, I used 5-6k without any problems, even with higher speed.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Thats were I got my stock config: https://github.com/Prutsium/3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper
GitHub
GitHub - Prutsium/3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper: Repo for config file(s...
Repo for config file(s) for Prusa MK3(S)(+) with Klipper - GitHub - Prutsium/3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper: Repo for config file(s) for Prusa MK3(S)(+) with Klipper
Then the motors would've run with higher currents
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
0.3 Amps
That config says 0.65 amps
and that's RMS
that's almost 1A peak
So i guess, try that.
Add this to your user overrides section:
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Couldn´t print the tension meter:
It's true, in this: https://github.com/Prutsium/3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper/blob/main/Klipper_cfg/Prusa_Universal_Config_Revised/Boards/Einsy/printer_einsy.cfg
It does say 0.35
GitHub
3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper/printer_einsy.cfg at main · Prutsium/3D-D...
Repo for config file(s) for Prusa MK3(S)(+) with Klipper - 3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper/printer_einsy.cfg at main · Prutsium/3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper
Nozzle size?
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
0,4
Configuring RatOS Macros | RatOS
RatOS comes with a bunch of flexible predefined macro's that can be customized via variables. In your printer.cfg at the bottom of the Macro's section, you'll notice this:
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
you mean setting this variable to true?
If your slicer uses absolute extrusion it should be false
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
you only can download the gcode for the belt meter. i dont know, what they set there
Ah, make sure you download the one for a 0.4mm nozzle then
That's such a bad practice btw, it won't work well.
Like what if your start gcode were different or you wanted to use another filament or something?
Or print it on another printer for that matter.
I hate people who do this. rant over 😂
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
True, but they only guarantee, that tension meter will work when printed with their settings 👎
Luckily i have Prusament PETG here
Which is stupid, it's a static part 😄
Oh it's supposed to flex
then it makes sense
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Isnt the needle flexible?
ok
yeah i just realized
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
extrusion problem again :-! I think thats cause of using the K values for Lineare Advance
Yeah you can't port marlin values to klipper values.
But that's unlikely it would have to be huuuuuuge
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Other things to mention: i realized that in Druckerplausch config, they use other microstep settings and the interpolation of axis is on. could be those make the difference?
No not for layer shifting
interpolation will result in positioning error
Same as using hold_current
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Ok... Other things to try then?
And as you heard, there are 4 other people running this config without issues
tension or more current
Make sure your bed moves freely on your printer with the motors off
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
yes, with less acceleration. One of them had layer shifts, too
Then use less acceleration or raise the current of your y stepper
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
its smooth like butter. Like i said, with Druckerplausch config, its working without any problem
ok
It could also be input shaper, if you were using input shaper with the other config and not with this one for example.
To clarify, skipping steps on Y is purely determined by how much force is needed to move your Y at your given acceleration and how much current is going into the stepper.
Stealthchop ruins your max_accel. But besides that nothing else has any notable impact.
It's all about current and required force.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
when i realize skipping at y-axis, it sounds like the power of the motor is suddenly kicking in
Try and capture it on video
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
😄 ok
rival-black•2y ago
0.4 is more than enough for the Y axis motor
If you go up on current the motor will start to heat up a lot
Also loose the belts
I tested with 0.6 and the fysetc and ldo motors were very hot
It's OK for the motors to get hot, they just shouldn't get much hotter than 60C on the outside (feels like burning to the touch). That would correspond to an internal temperature of around 80C which is still safe for operation.
They're good up to 130C
At which point your risk shorting, insulation breaking down etc.
And even then, worst thing that can happen is that you have to replace your motor.
Just general FYI for speed tuning 😄
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
F... Lyerskip on last layer where i tzurned off the camera. Will try this evening again 😉 But motor is pretty hot
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
I have got it on video. First everything went well, then i got one, then two layershifts. After that this error:
Yeah you're issuing commands faster than the microcontroller can handle. It's a poor 8-bit 16mhz controller. That's why @cloudhd3d set the printer limits. You shouldn't change those.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
at 331/32 seconds
hmm.. That actually sounds more mechanical than it sounds like a stepper is skipping. Check that your pulley is properly fixed to the shaft of that Y motor.
Can't rule out that it's skipping though, in which case -> lower accel.
Seems like it's your travel moves
Printing moves are fine
So lower default acceleration (or travel acceleration if that's a thing) in your slicer.
Those two at 4000, put them at 3000
If you want to go faster than 240 mm/s, you'd need to lower the microsteps and reenable interpolation at the cost of positional accuracy (will impact print quality)
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Thats what I am doing now. I found a git entry, where that is described to do and which is also in Druckerplausch config.
Can you say, in which way this will impact print quality?
No success. Printer is especially at start to fast for axis calibration and crashed again each part of frame. In that case, speed and accell have to be slow and during print faster. Dont know what to do or how to handle that. At the end, I will do what you recommend... Thank you very much for your time!! I have to live with lower speed/acceleration in future 😉
Remove your [printer] override. You set it to 10000..
Post you printer.cfg
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Aight so this looks good now, printer limits are back to the defaults and you've dropped down to 16 microsteps with interpolation. How's that working for you?
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
I printed now several cubes without any interuption. Change of lowering Microsteps and setting interpolation = true did the job. Hopefully thats the solution 😄 I cant see any difference in print quality (caused by lower microsteps and interpolation setting). Maybe someone else want to dive deeper into it 😉
Thanks @miklschmidt and @cloudhd3d for your time and input!! @cloudhd3d I will have a deeper look into your settings! I already saw some points which I am interested at!
rival-black•2y ago
What did you changed exactly?
Interpolation was part of @cloudhd3d's initial PR, i made him change it. Maybe we need to make it default for the Mk3
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
With interpolation its much much quieter! No feeping noises.
[printer]
max_velocity: 300
#max_accel: 4500
#max_accel_to_decel: 4500
#square_corner_velocity: 5
[stepper_x]
microsteps: 16
[tmc2130 stepper_x]
interpolate: True
[stepper_y]
microsteps: 16
[tmc2130 stepper_y]
interpolate: True
[stepper_z]
microsteps: 16
[tmc2130 stepper_z]
interpolate: True
[extruder]
microsteps: 32
[tmc2130 extruder]
interpolate: True
Yes that's why we use 64 microsteps on all other printers, it's almost the same noise wise, but that poor 8-bit 16mhz mcu isn't fast enough for that. With interpolation and 16 microsteps you get the accuracy of 16 microsteps and then the TMC drivers "makes up" the remaining microsteps up to 256.
That's why it causes positional inaccuracies.
So you're actually running 256 microsteps, only they're much more inaccurate.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
what i also recognized is, that after print is done, there are problems with calibration axes when starting next print:
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Then I have to do a complete restart of klipper
Another print... layershifts. Fuuu :-! I dont know if its relevant, but MCU is at 30%
You're not the first to report this. Does seem like there's a bug, i will look into that.
RESTART_FIRMWARE, is like a 5 second process, so not the worst workaround in the world, but i get it's annoying.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
I tried Primeblob. It looks like the move after blob is created, is too fast. Y-belt is skipping there. No problem when using Primeline.
I am running my prints now with 3k acceleration and 240 mm/s Vmax. No layershifts during prints so far 😉
i also switched to settings of Druckerplausch:
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
indeed, no problem with that workaround 🙂
after two succesful prints, layershift in X
Still have the problem. I tried to copy over the complete Druckerplausch config, but thats how it looks like at the moment . With Klipper Kiauh installation there is no problem!
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
@miklschmidt @cloudhd3d maybe you could give me some more hibts to look at. I know, that its possible to run the printer with that config, but i dont know why its not working with ratos
You must have different settings. Post both printer.cfgs.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
The last one are all my added custom config files.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
I think the biggest problem is the part in Printer_einsy.cfg. There you find:
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 5500
With velocity 240 and accel 3k everything is working. So far so good, but my settings above are working with normal klipper installation. I also reflashed the board like described here https://github.com/Prutsium/3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper/wiki/1_Flash_Einsy_USB_bootloader_en, to be sure that this is not the problem.
GitHub
Home
Repo for config file(s) for Prusa MK3(S)(+) with Klipper - Prutsium/3D-Druckerplausch-Klipper
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
The belt isnt skipping as you can see at sec 24 in the video for example. The noise comes directly from the motor. I also dont think, thats caused by overheating, because Printer was completly cold (off for several hours).
All of these are not RatOS. You're saying the problem comes from a non RatOS file?
your stepper current are extremely low, nothing will overheat with that, but they'll also have very little torque.
Personally i would raise the currents of those steppers to be in line with their rating
Let them get warm, they perform better when they're hot.
Besides that, you must be doing something to your RatOS config, since the stock config is reportedly working on 4 other mk3s.
I would need the complete compiled config output from both the "good config", ie, the one where you say you're getting higher accels with no skipping, and the complete compiled config output from your RatOS setup.
Those will appear after boot in the klipper.log
It's the same machine, same hardware. So somewhere the driver and current settings and/or the accel/speed settings differ.
There's nothing more to it
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
No, I think, the problem comes from RatOS, because with normal Klipper installation, i can run my MK3 with 300/5500 without any problem.
Yes, i used the settings from druckerplausch. So far not any problem with it.
What is "normal klipper installation"?
Like i said, i can't help unless i can get the 2 complete compiled configs from the klipper.log so i can determine the difference between them
RatOS is also just "a normal klipper installation".
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Like @cloudhd3d there is someone with problems like me. they could fix it by reducing speed and accel. That works for me, too. But that cant be the solution, because i know its working with other installation of klipper.
Raspbian 32bit and Kiauh klipper installation
Literally the same as RatOS.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
no problem. will send them 🙂
Only difference is the config
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
I invested a lot of time into it and would be glad, when we find the problem 😄 I just generate the klippy.logs
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
excellent, thank you
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Aou are welcome! Let me know, when there is something to test, I have time today 😉
This is most likely your problem:
You enabled stealtchop in your RatOS installation
There are warnings in your printer.cfg (at least there should be) that this severely impacts print speed performance
You only get like 1/3 - 1/4 of the performance out of the steppers when running stealthchop.
stealthchop_threshold should be 1 or 0. 0 is the most reliable.
the "klippy_KIAUH" one, runs
stealthchop_threshold: 0.rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
In RatOS i didnt change the stealthchop_threshold to 999999. Thats stock there. Should i set it to 0 and retry? Furthermore i cant find it in klippy_kiauh o.O
Oof.. It is.. it really shouldn't be. it's not defined in that other config, which means it's 0.
Just uncomment the stealth config here: https://github.com/Rat-OS/RatOS-configuration/blob/v2.x/templates/prusa-mk3s-printer.template.cfg#L44
GitHub
RatOS-configuration/prusa-mk3s-printer.template.cfg at v2.x · Rat-O...
The RatOS modular klipper configuration. Contribute to Rat-OS/RatOS-configuration development by creating an account on GitHub.
Fixed all of it. Update RatOS through mainsail and comment out the stealth include and you should have the same behavior between the two configs.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Started a print 🙂
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
@miklschmidt is that correct here?
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
your commit was for sensorless homing
Omg i failed
hold on
thank you for that
Should be fixed now
good catch
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
no problem, i uncomment the line by myself. Print just started and the bed calibration went through without any problem!!!
excellent
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Will then test your original RatOS config afterwards. Maybe a hint at the stealthmode part is useful, that when using it, max accel is at around 3k and max vel is at around 240.
Yeah i'll add a comment about speed that seems to be missing from this one
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
There are some differences between druckerplausch and ratos bed mesh calibration (like the magnet and calibration positions). I also transferred the flexplate config to RatOS which in my opinion, is really usefull for first layer calibration!! The macro section tune to adapt height of print at the start is really usefull. Should i open a new thread for those parts?
Those would need to be implemented in a generalized manner so they can be reused, it's not something that is on top of my list currently. It's better suited for #ratos-plugins-and-macros currently. Might be a thing in the future though.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Interesting part: The value 999999 seems to be correct!
Setting "spreadCycle" vs "stealthChop" Mode¶
By default, Klipper places the TMC drivers in "spreadCycle" mode. If the driver supports "stealthChop" then it can be enabled by adding stealthchop_threshold: 999999 to the TMC config section.
In general, spreadCycle mode provides greater torque and greater positional accuracy than stealthChop mode. However, stealthChop mode may produce significantly lower audible noise on some printers.
Tests comparing modes have shown an increased "positional lag" of around 75% of a full-step during constant velocity moves when using stealthChop mode (for example, on a printer with 40mm rotation_distance and 200 steps_per_rotation, position deviation of constant speed moves increased by ~0.150mm). However, this "delay in obtaining the requested position" may not manifest as a significant print defect and one may prefer the quieter behavior of stealthChop mode.
It is recommended to always use "spreadCycle" mode (by not specifying stealthchop_threshold) or to always use "stealthChop" mode (by setting stealthchop_threshold to 999999). Unfortunately, the drivers often produce poor and confusing results if the mode changes while the motor is at a non-zero velocity.
@miklschmidt i saw, that you lowered the microsteps and set interpolation to true. Is there a reason why, when the reason of my problem seems to be stealthshop?
No, 999999 or whatever high number you want causes it to run in stealthchop mode. Stealthchop is bad. Stealthchop_threshold: 0 means spreadcycle, which is good.
Sound
Interpolation will cause the driver to control the stepper via 256 microsteps even though only 16 is generated. The 32 microsteps was a compromise because the slow 8-bit einsy wasn't fast enough to do 64 (which is ideal for noise without interpolation).
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Thank you very much for the explanation! My print went through withpput any interuption. I think that did the trick 🙂 It was worth for me continuing to work on that problem!! Will use completly updated config at next print.
It was, thanks for the help!
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
@miklschmidt Primeblob is now working, too. Furthermore i found that:
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
it only prints "Priming nozzle with". With what? 😄
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
RUN
Hah apparently those old displays don't fit much text. You'd think it would scroll it then, but no..
Weeeeeeeeeeeeee
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
😄 suggestion for goodness: Primeblob running 🙂
@miklschmidt I think, the bed mesh isn´t working correctly. I got an error with variable_skew_profile so i remove that in printer.cfg. But bed mesh is still not working:
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
you see, on the left front side of this print, the nozzle just above the bed. on the right back side, the nozzle is more away
you can see that by comparing the outlines
Look at your z steppers, if they move while printing a layer bed mesh is working. If you're having troubles despite bed mesh working, it's usually a mechanical issue.
rare-sapphireOP•2y ago
Z moves while printing a layer. I need to do more research. Do you have any pointers to follow up?