Bed mesh on Vcore3.1 500
Hi everyone,
Can someone guide me through acceptable bed mesh deviation on a 500?
40 Replies
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
that
0.3mm over 500mm i'd say is quite good
mine's 1mm off from one corner to the other, suspect it's got dinged in shipping
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
broad-brownOP•2y ago
Thanks a lot, its at least some kind of a metric. Otherwise I can't find any info and cannot fine tune the frame any more than it was previously from 0.878
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
at that point i'd think it's actually modifying the bed that would be the way to go, it should be fairly simple to knock down those corners a little with something like a lapping block or something, or just even sandpaper
though, make sure you really want to go that way 😛
that center portions of yours is gorgeusly flat though 
wow Norden...yo need to bring the front two Y axis corners UP! The left more than the right but should massively reduce that dip at the right rear and lower the left rear
I though this was a pinned thread here....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7ZTq2dDTkM
3D Printers & a Whiteboard
YouTube
RatRig V-Core 3: How to Get a Square Frame
This video is for those who struggle getting bed meshed with their RatRig V-Core 3.
Please feel free to jump to the chapter you are interested in.
0:00 Intro
1:05 about the v-core 3 frame and bed leveling
8:26 what to take care of in the building phase
9:17 the right square
10:09 build tips
16:50 adjusting the frame according to your bed mesh
...
broad-brownOP•2y ago
any tips on my mesh though? 😄
that video will show you WHY and HOW to get that mesh more level. He goes through some guides and shows you via meshes, what effects what and how to correct same.
broad-brownOP•2y ago
I have already run through it, it got me from 0.878 to 0.31
no matter how I temper now, i cant make it better
I've a VC500, hot @ .019mm 11,11 mesh
broad-brownOP•2y ago
ok, then I'll check again
throw a 1" -2" wide strip of notebook or printer paper under the corner of your print bed where the bed is reading further from the probe than the adjacent corner and run a mesh. When you find the variance you can add Kapton tape (or blue painters tape whatever) right on top your magnet sheet to raise that corner of the print bed surface. Search youtube for 'level a print bed with tape...dozens of vids
broad-brownOP•2y ago
Sure, thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbpDuoYITr0 is one... and an intersting one...a printed surface to compensate, then put the bed on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FjC4mHGeRI
Delan3d
YouTube
Ratrig Bed Levelling issues - finally sorted.
Special thanks to John Beima for all the time spent with me troubleshooting this not very well designed 3d printer.
After more investigation i am pretty sure that it is a system issue which cannot cope with the bed mesh leveling properly.
What i have done so far:
1. New probe - SuperPINDA form Prusa Research
2. Made the bed as flat as possible...
A-Make Designs
YouTube
Warped Bed: printable solution for a perfect first layer!
🛒⚙️ You can get the items you need here: https://kit.co/a_make_designs/ender-3
If you want to support my work with a small donation you can do it through PayPal here:
🍩 https://paypal.me/amakedesigns
Glass, tape, obsessive bed leveling… Are you fed up with all this?
Give a look to the video and let me know if it worked for you in the comment...
broad-brownOP•2y ago
Ok, this is interesting. But this should be relevant only if the bed actually is the one that is not flat, therefore I was looking for hints, if its a mechanical issue on the frame or linear rails
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
that's very possible, i've not made an effort to fix it yet
do you have any knowledge on just how much we're talking? i assume not much as over 500mm it'll become a lot of movement 
broad-brownOP•2y ago
The bed being cast and milled would make me think its quite a low possibility for it to be warped and all but im not so sure about the magnetic plate and the PEI sheet itself
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
ah cheers
what might be a good idea for chasising "perfection" is to configure your probe to do more than 1 probe each time, so that it'll do the average and be in theory a bit more reliable
broad-brownOP•2y ago
In this case i dont think the repeatability is an issue, as i have made already tens of these meshes and it basically shows the same pattern
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
it could be, the magnetic bed isn't really a precision item
i don't have anything on my bed atm due to the magnetic bed degrading ( probably some chemical i got on it )
so i'm probing the aluminium plate, with an inductive probe that is
it does seem like i might have a little bent corner, but @ptegler 's shout of moving the Y rails up in the front is a really good idea
that's fair
hmm, what probe was it youi had again?
broad-brownOP•2y ago
Im using bltouch
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
ah ok
was thinking it might be the bolts or magnets with a inductive one, if the high points was near them, but that's not it then
going back and looking at your orig pic.... since most of your deviation is right at the corners.... it could be as simple as how tight you fastened the very ends of you Y linear rails (or loose) Many people will tighten one end...then the other (for alignment) then tighten everything in between. WRONG.... you need to work your way down the length. Just like the X gantry bow due to dissimilar materials, end for end than the middle tightening the rails does the same thing to the Y rails. Try just relaxing the last two or so Y rail bolts (up front) and see if it changes those corners. BUT.... you'd think that would be all the way across the front of the X axis. But since it's just the very corners.... try stacking a few layers of print surfaces (or anything you have large enough and flat enough) under your print surface and try a mesh. Right now I have a smooth PEI spring metal, but I have a 1/32" garloite plate glued to it. (same 3M sheets as your magnetic surface) the garloite is a print surface as well
broad-brownOP•2y ago
I was doing as per instruction from start to end skipping a bolt and the from the same start fixing all loose bolts
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
i would not be able to stack anything like paper on it, as i use a inductive probe, i'd have to use something metal, but how far it would activate doesn't neccesarily collaberate with the thickness
I will have to check the rails, i've discovered i have over-tightend the X gantry so much it damaged the exutrsion, it's possible i've done that with the Y rails too
broad-brownOP•2y ago
but let me try to fiddle with rails as well
i have fiddled with frame till now only
Very easy to do (over tighten.) ha ha been THERE! To this day (even as an old gezzer) I cannot use a socket wrench, with handle in hand. I wrap my fist around the head, and with the handle sticking out between thumb and forefinger kinda throw the handle. Anything up to about a 5/16" bolt I can snap the head right off.
(I've been restoring old British Car for the last 30+ years... old iron in general for over 50+. I force myself to use a torque screw drive on all thse little screws and still snapped a few. 🙂
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
I used my drill and the clutch on it, turns out they are not that reliable and will torque the crap out of the bolt sometimes
it's that fast spin and sudden stop ....zips right past the 'torque' limiter of the spring clutch in an electric drill. Do a test yourself.... slooow speed on the lowest setting. than repeat at 1/2 speed. SLOOW speed you might be able to undue the nut by hand even. higher... no way. ha They are designed to not strip srew heads.... not positive drive tiny m3 screws. he he
broad-brownOP•2y ago
Ok, so i did some messing around
1) Retightened linear rails on X and Y
2) Adjusted config to make mesh and z tilting much nearer the fixture points on the bed
Per image it seems, that the bed itself is sagging on unsupported ends - what do you think?
broad-brownOP•2y ago
Same mesh from other POV
broad-brownOP•2y ago
And same when heated to 60C
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
i'd say it's very plausible it sags a little, you don't have to put a lot of force on either of those corners to have it start moving around a little
yep... got rid of my 'potato chip' bed..but over kill
https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1056263255842099331/1056263255842099331
with the next iteration already in the works....
These 500 sized beds really need to be thicker (>=8+ mm) 6 (oem) just doesn't cut it. Probably more than adequate for the 300 and possible 400 but not the 5's
just found https://spannsysteme.shop/produkte/ratrig-v-core-3-500-bed making 10mm beds looks like mandalaroseworks in the U.S. is carrying them (or re-machining them?)
Spannsysteme - für die optimale Zerspanung
RatRig V-Core 3 - 500 Bed - Spannsysteme - für die optimale Zerspan...
Dimension: 529 x 529 x 10 mm (original: 6 mm) Material: EN AW-5083 cast tooling plate Tolerance (of total length): +- 0.05 mm (22°C) Magnets: 20 pieces with M3 screws (ISO 14581 M3) QA Certificate: Created by a Mitutoyo CRYSTA-Apex V Shipping Start: 14.02.2023 in Europe US Customers: Mandela Rose Works
Yep, definitely not what we do. As far as we have been able to research, we are the originators of the top magnet designed beds. We definitely do not buy from Austria. All of our products are manufactured right here in Minnesota.
https://mandalaroseworks.com/collections/ratrig
MandalaRoseWorks
RatRig
Read below for Great Discount Codes! Welcome to the section of our website for RatRig Parts! Make sure to make use of our discount codes if you are buying multiple panel options. (A single panel item is defined as each line item in your cart.) Use "RatRig2PanelItems" - Good for $35 off your order if you are ordering
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
man your store is just full of things i really want <:1970_pepe_sweat:1035522769015812190>
@Norden you can look at https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/987438756145528862
right here in the RR community
NFI just like supporting small companies! 🙂
grumpy-cyan•2y ago
ty
don't have the money for anything at the moment 