Midi looks at Paris Fashion Week FW25
I blab on about what I think from runways I looked at
24 Replies
SACAI
The sweepy cross body layering is very good - reminiscent of central Asian garments. Surprisingly I love the knits this season, I’m actually not a huge Sacai knit person because they feel kinda lumpy to me in the past. Love the gauzy feeling with the tailoring, it really brings a sort of airy lightness to the looks.
COMME DES GARCONS
I’m not a Rei-head and I don’t really perceive fashion in a way that endears me to look at CDG as more than art pieces vs clothes I can wear. I liked the more bulbous architectural outfits, but not huge on the tartan or unfinished edges. Also not the most groundbreaking CDG from what I’ve seen in the past - reminiscent of paper dolls in one look specifically
GIVENCHY
I have no point of reference for Givenchy aside from Audrey Hepburn and Megan Markle’s wedding dress, so I’m going into this with a somewhat clean slate I guess. I can only really describe this collection as comforting, especially with the embroidery. It’s a not too out there collection, with some exceptions of some very questionable styling (the very first look and the big mirror bracelets). My favourite touches are the black of the jacket bleeding into the trousers and panel of embroidery on the black coat. Curious to see what Sarah Burton does now that’s left Alexander McQueen
DIOR
Dior does lacy clothing well as always - and as always has styling misses. I wish the biker jacket-esque look was paired with a different bottom. I love looking at the little collars they have in the looks. I don’t know why MGC keeps on pushing the word J’adior everywhere but it’s a huge improvement on the stupid Miss Dior collection.
MIU MIU
This season is an absolute slump compared to the high that Miu Miu has been going on for the last couple of seasons. Miu Miu is not a brand that has leant into any sort of irony, so to take these looks at face value - I don’t really like it. It’s frumpy and sloppy without much intention.
ROKH
I liked the vibe, but often the execution was lacking. The shoes were atrocious and didn’t often fit well with the outfits. The accessories and makeup were the highlight of the show.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
There were nods to both McQueen and Burton’s work - Sean McGirr seems to be getting his footing right now - I like what I could be seeing in two more collections, but needs to spend more time tightening up styling.
ZIMMERMANN
Zimmermann is Zimmermann. Ethereal rich woman chic with a big balayage. This collection leant more into the safari/boho vibe than their previous collections. No one really does big fluffy dresses better than Zimmermann and they continue to do what they do best.
I like the thought on this. A lot of the more interesting CDG pieces are considerably harder to view as anything but art pieces. You can say that about a lot of designers, but theres definitely a spectrum of wearability, even on their more sculptural looks, like Issey.
Also Sacai seems to have inherited CDG's lumpy knits
Yeah a lot of the CDG family of brands' runways just register as art to me
And I really do not like this
yeah. It's usually serviceable, but for the prices they charge...
I've rarely been impressed by CDG's non collab or non-special release knits
what's a good knit from cdg then
i feel like a lot of cdg i see at the retailers i follow is p straightforward poplin/poly frilly stuff
Yeah I feel like that aspect of CDG tends to appeal to retailers more. CDG seems to like to use the same lumpy but fairly structured wool on a lot of knits that Sacai also loves but they've done a lot of more delicate ones in mohair, like the one adapt loves to wear. Junya's stuff for CDG had more of a focus on that
Stuff like this is basically guaranteed to use that lumpy wool though
I guess my thoughts on it are that there are other brands doing similar knitwear for cheaper and often better.
The CDG umbrella also needs to stop using that godawful scratchy tulle and fish netting. NKN esp loves it
ugh yeah it looks good on rack/model, but it's never been good to wear
If anything it really reinforces the feeling of it as art vs something wearable