Spezzato and conflicting advice?
So I'm doing a deep dive and researching what I can regarding suits. Doing a lot of research, I see that spezzato is great for diversifying your suit wardrobe but at the same time, everywhere I look, people are always saying to not mix and match suits even tho spezzato is exactly doing that, even looking at some old men's wear illustrations from the golden age of men's wear. Can someone help clarify what is spezzato and how to do it effectively if you only plan to have 2 or 3 suits?
9 Replies
If you only have 2 or 3 suits mixing and matching regularly is a bad idea because you'll wear the pants out faster and prematurely end up with no suits. Let alone anything else.
And for most people with 2 or 3 suits those suits are going to be fairly basic suits that don't work well as separates (navy worsted, charcoal worsted and a mid gray maybe? That doesn't mix and match well). Having proper separates will give you more flexibility.
Alright thank you for the insight
https://archive.is/ZpPox The difference is that its casual, think about suit as a combination of a suit jacket and formal pants, do they have to match? why? They only need to match if the formality of the event requires it, and two things this is cultural American tailoring doesnt understand not following rules and two you are barely going to be using your suits in the modern corporate world as we have moved from suits to business casual, I barely go to the office once a year now, and even the business who still do office work, are mostly hot desking 3 days a week and people are strictly smart casual about it meaning no suits. Italian tailoring is not just for business, its also meant to be used casually, for example this spezzato thing, wouldnt be so different to an spaniard using a Tebas jacket with some wool trousers. Look at this Tebas Simon crompton is wearing: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/11/the-teba-as-substitute-for-a-tailored-jacket.html Would this fit look better or worse if he used suit pants instead of those uber slim white chinos? The truth is, he would have looked better with suit pants, as it would have balanced hes siloute. And example of something similar from James Bond : https://www.bondsuits.com/two-unstructured-jackets-different-fits-same-concept-in-licence-to-kill-and-spectre/ an example of an old man casually rocking this kind of jacket: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnBpCI1CvNEWqRWlXbHmA33f2NwOw7UoCcnujtQqF9i1XqP2C8it0fglSIy_2iLvWDO5snkdGd3iLBiTf_aD-FJ72Zjy600YTsFqWQexpKkBYX_c_ufJoaxFHnyMCInLWUvFjk2vGGE0_/s640/TebaDePunto.jpg
From this blog post theres an insight: https://eduardodesimone.com/blogs/notizie/spezzato-the-rules "Let’s get it straight, a spezzato is less formal than a suit. One thing you should know is: connoisseurs don’t use suit’s jackets for separates (with very few exceptions). Either a blazer or a sports jacket will do for us."
From this blog post theres an insight: https://eduardodesimone.com/blogs/notizie/spezzato-the-rules "Let’s get it straight, a spezzato is less formal than a suit. One thing you should know is: connoisseurs don’t use suit’s jackets for separates (with very few exceptions). Either a blazer or a sports jacket will do for us."
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If you only plan to have 2 or 3 suits, what you need to ask you is why? Whats the porpuse?
i have 2 suits and the way i "do" spezzato is by wearing dedicated separates and sometimes things that aren't tailored jackets in lieu of a blazer/sport coat
i would question why you need 2-3 suits? is this a way to meet dress code requirements for work or do you have an interest in italian tailoring and aesthetics
The latter, though I will admit I probably only need 1 suit
Thanks everyone, I'll just stick with odd trousers and sport coats to achieve this look
Additionally, just as safety measure, the tailor I went to has two different jackets for sale, a sports coat and a no lining blazer, should I go for one or the other?
Picture, preferably of you wearing them.
Unfortunately, they'll have to be made but I think I'll hold off for now, thanks everyone!
depending on the fabrics used and your needs they both might merit a place in your wardrobe