Double pleated trousers

I got a new pair of trousers and I'd like a fit check on them before I get them hemmed because once they're altered I can't return them. I'm a big guy and I like a looser fit. These wool trousers feel good on me but I'm wondering if the area around the hips is billowing out too much. I feel fine about how they look but I want to see if the overall silhouette is within historical norms for this kind of pants. I'm going to get them hemmed with cuffs once I'm sure I'm going to keep them. Thank you!
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11 Replies
zeometer
zeometer4mo ago
where are the top of the pants hitting relative to your body? (at your waist, above it, or below)
spiritualbrunch (he/him)
A little under my bellybutton, I think at my waist then
spiritualbrunch (he/him)
here's a fuller view
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zeometer
zeometer4mo ago
it might be worth raising them slightly above the waist so that there's more of a drape from the hip down
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spiritualbrunch (he/him)
Where is the top of the pants relative to your belly button here?
zeometer
zeometer4mo ago
brown pair is an inch above the navel, gray pair is higher because they have a longer rise
spiritualbrunch (he/him)
with the rise on these pants they can go a bit higher but it doesn't change the drape too much. There's definitely some extra fabric on the side here, highlighted with these lines. Is there any simple alteration that would be recommended to have the silouhette fall a little closer to the lines of my thighs?
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spiritualbrunch (he/him)
Here's a close up of what feels like extra fabric, and a photo of me holding that extra fabric flat against my leg on my left side. Is it possible/advisable to have that extra fabric tucked into the side seam? I don't think I'm getting any mobility out of that extra room.
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zeometer
zeometer4mo ago
the pleats are going to add additional volume which will result in that extra fabric - you can see it in the first fit near my left (camera right) arm the 'historical norm' is for this sort of extra width (check vintage polo or armani ads or mad men). while a tailor could take in some of the excess fabric, i think part of the issue is the leg opening is a little narrow how good or bad it will look will depend on what shoes you plan to wear with them and how much of a break you want (pic 1 has no break because i folded up the cuff, pic 2 has a full break because i liked the drape) imo i'd go to a tailor just to consult - take the shoes you plan to wear and see how the pants drape once you roll up the hem to the desired length and see if they're willing to take in the pleats they should hopefully just use chalk (ask for this if they don't) and if so, it's easy to brush it off if you decide to not keept them
spiritualbrunch (he/him)
That makes sense -- would letting out the leg opening below the knee be a better solution for evening out the silhouette?
zeometer
zeometer4mo ago
probably, depends on if there's extra fabric to do so
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