Looking for an Italian cut sport coat. Have some ebay selects that I'm considering.
So which one? My heart wants more brown, my brain says the black and white glen check is the most unlike anything I have. They vary in size from 38-42 because Italian suiting is slim af. The 38's should fit fine over a shirt, the 42 will allow some layering and might be a 🤏 long. All are Caruso, all < 200-300.
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Why an Italian sport coat if it's slim out of curiosity?
I like the softer cut, rounder shoulders.
Gorge and lapels on these look real nice tho
Yeah higher gorge and the wider lapels are more to my taste as well.
I generally hate Italian colour / pattern choices though.
The gorge on these is high? Looks moderate but maybe I don't have an experienced enough eye
Think I like the black and white glen check pattern the most
Should be higher than average but not Natalino high.
1, 2, and 3 are all bangers, 4 the pattern isn't really to my taste
My wife hates 4 as well so that one's got an uphill battle to fight. I do like tan / red glen but that one leans a little hard on the red.
FYI if you like soft shoulders, there's a lot of vintage Brooks out there with a natural shoulder (not exactly unstructured, cause there's a lil bit of canvas there, but it's not padded)
Did you figure out if the pockets on 1 and 2 are jetted or just tucked in flaps?
I had associated Brooks with a boxier silhouette, is it a particular line?
I don't know enough about the brand to tell tbh but Brooks in the 50s-60s was known for their softer shoulders
They could be jetted but I've seen a bunch of Caruso sport coats that are, like the black and white glen, so that doesn't necessarily mean it's an orphaned suit jacket.
This one is BB for example
That's good to know. I've pretty much exhausted every Caruso jacket on the market. I'll move on to vintage BB's.
Yeah BB is known for soft shoulders (like the stuff made by Southwick for example) and if you get vintage you can avoid the issues with the modern Southwick block that happened with my MTM jacket
@GSH the buttoning point on vintage BB is low right?
Also are the quarters open?
This one has a buttoning point that's lowish (not too low for my liking) with semi open quarters. Here's an outtake pic with the jacket buttoned
I'm actually asking the weejawnz server about how BB silhouette has changed over the decades too because I want to know for myself. I'll let you know what I find out
If weejawnz people don't know I'm sure Ethan or Puma would
V nice! What's low for your liking? Do you like it at your natural waistline or higher?
Some of the 80s jackets I've found are too low. Lemme see if I can find an example
These all give me pause because of the low buttoning points. Hard to tell from the pics though, maybe they'd work
This dude knows his stuff
I've definitely seen some nice 346 jackets in the past. I'll need to build some new ebay searches
1818 is better than 346 I think?
Really like #2 here fwiw
I think there's good 346 label and a bad one. I'll have to read up on 1818
Sam
SamTalksStyle
A guide to Brooks Brothers sub-brands and diffusion lines
A guide to the various diffusion lines and labels of Brooks Brothers. Those that are worth buying, and those which ought to be avoided.
Keeping the deep knowledge straight on sublines for different brands is so hard lol
Yeah, RL is the worst for that
Put an offer on #2 🤞
#2 is easily my first choice
Didn't accept offer 1, just timed out so I'm going to be shrewd and buy at full price. :thinkies:
Upped by ten bucks instead and he bit.
Really nice selection may I ask if you have any tips for buying suits vintage?
Know your measurements. It's very helpful to have pieces on hand that you can compare fit with. The two glen check ones in that selection are smaller than recent purchases but I had an SEH Kelly jacket that fits closer to the body, so can't accomodate layers, but looks great with the same dimensions. Also finding a brand with a cut that you like. I like Italian tailoring, Caruso make for major brands like Ralph Lauren and are relatively common but tend to have a weak secondary market. A 1k jacket from Caruso can be <200 used in pristine condition.
There are other Italian brands that are in a similar situation to Caruso, like Belvest, but I'm less into their cuts.
I'm only dipping my toes in. I've bought sport coats that worked out amazing and 1 that was a complete 💩 so it's more art than science.
Makes sense I guess I will have to accept some duds along the way but even with those it might come out cheaper than new. Thank you:)
Can I make an order?