Suitjacket alteration question

6 Replies
kstocks
kstocks5mo ago
I've never had armholes lowered which seems to be the issue you're facing. If you were to get it fixed it would likely require a very skilled trailer and would be expensive because they would have to recut the pattern.
rej
rej5mo ago
I'm not the one to answer your question, but the video you've provided is very helpful in identifying problem areas with the fit and was a good idea. In general it just seems like that brand/cut might not be for some one with your proportions
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae5mo ago
To lower or make the armhole bigger without adding extra fabric which would look terrible you’d need extra fabric in the sleeve. Most jackets won’t have that, I would suggest looking for a jacket with a larger armhole that isn’t as high Generally, I wouldn’t suggest MTM as the first option but with your arms and chest I would if it’s possible for you to do that.
pumaturtle
pumaturtle5mo ago
Hey man, I work as a haberdasher. The jacket being too small in the chest is 95% not fixable and probably not worth it to be fixed even if it was. @upsett1_spaghett1 🍝 is correct, I’d probably go made to measure if that’s possible for you. At a glance you need a chest dart, need to account for your shoulder - chest drop, need to account for a sloping shoulder, and probably need a bit more in the overarm
jawntanamo_bae
jawntanamo_bae5mo ago
(Side note: “haberdasher” is the coolest old timey word for working with clothes)
pumaturtle
pumaturtle5mo ago
Alternatively, a minimally padded, extended shoulder jacket in a Neapolitan style may suit you a little bit better. Neapolitan jackets have a bit more room in the shoulder, a bit of drape in the chest, minimal padding which is less constrictive on your shoulder area, as well as being darted which will help account for your larger overarm/smaller torso My go to rec would be natalino - they make some great quality stuff for attainable prices and their styling is generally on point. If that doesn’t work for you please feel free to ping me here or DM me and I can give other recs. You can also ask for advice/any questions whenever 🙂 Also - Be aware that Neapolitan jackets are generally very tough to get right outside of a few “respected” houses and some upstart ones - would really really recommend reaching out to me if you don’t like natalino. Cheers!