Building a secondhand academic wardrobe
https://malefashionadvice.substack.com/p/how-i-built-an-academic-wardrobe
I wrote this article a while ago but have since updated it with some in-line pictures and new items. Come check out my secondhand academic clothing adventure!
Building a secondhand academic wardrobe
Those of you who know my posts here know I'm all about buying secondhand, so, I wanted to share my progress on building an academic wardrobe completely secondhand. I work in academia, and like to play into that a bit with some loafers and tweedy sport coats, especially at professional events like conferences.
28 Replies
@jfarrell468 I finally got around to updating this!
Yo I used to have a Southwick Navy Doeskin blazer when I was still trying to convince myself I was a 40 chest. I still have a Southwick suit. RIP to US icon
Rip. They do pop up on ebay quite a bit so maybe you can find something if you need to fill the void
I bought that Polo one and also a Brooks Bros one recently so I’m probably good for a little while. That said, I do find myself looking for a double breasted navy blazer regularly
As a Small Boi™️ I’ve had much trouble finding small sizes of sportcoats and such on secondary market. I’m a little hesitant about alterations just from lack of knowledge here - a pair of pants are an easy fix on bringing them in and hemming, but can I have basically the same expectation of “ease of altering” with say, a sportcoat? I wear 36S, but if I bought a secondhand 38R, can I make that work at the tailor?
Depends on if the shoulders fit or not. Shoulders are pretty hard to alter without a lot of expense
Shoulder measurement is going to be the most important, I would include 36 to 38 in your search and buy based on the measurements rather than listed size (especially vintage stuff the listed sizing doesn't always tell you a ton)
My wallet curses you
LHS in snuff for $300 🥲🥲
Is wearing this stolen valor if I went to the darkside and moved to industry?
They were practically new too
I’m waiting for the day
Until then the snuff meermin tassels will have to suffice
How did you find shell LHS for 150?
They were decently used, not in the greatest condition
I will probably need to give them a resole within the next year
I think the bidding on them also wasn't as active because they aren't the 986, they're one of less well known models
The uppers look great though! I have seen ones with uppers in rougher shape go for more. Still an amazing find
Yeah I'm pretty thrilled with em!
Ha, another academic here, and I have ended up with basically this collection of stuff. A Harris tweed, and a grey donegal, prl navy blazer, and a couple of linen coats. Just one pair of loafers, loake suede ones, but keeping an eye out for a leather pair at the right price
Academic is a funny way of saying Ivy! Love that brown and blue southwick.
I’m working on updating my guide with pics which is turning to be a much bigger hassle than I anticipated lol.
I can’t believe you found the BB version for 150. Even beat up the price has been nuts lately.
I was hesitant to label this as Ivy for some reason
I think because it's basically business casual Ivy rather than the more casual and trendy version of Ivy that's been popular on mfa etc
Fair - some of this borders on trad lol
I thought this old FT article was solid and why I like to use Ivy as a catchall: https://archive.ph/DnrFp
Great article!
@bigelow_ what part of the world are you in? I'm in Ireland, and the ivy/trad/ etc labels always feel a bit odd applied to what are not unusual styles with their own history here
I'm in the US
A lot of Ivy’s history is rooted in the British isles. There’s a lot of similarities but ivy style kind of went it’s own way in the long run.
@leisurelyloafing yeah. It's interesting, since I've started reading more online/ being more aware of this stuff I've been trying these things out in context here
Permanent style hosted an ivy symposium and it’s a great primer: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2019/10/ivy-style-today-the-symposium-video-new-york.html
Permanent Style
Ivy Style today: The Symposium video, New York
Last week's Symposium in New York was hugely enjoyable. There were over 200 enthusiastic people in the audience (standing room only) and I think the speakers were perfect. Alan Flusser gave the historical background on Ivy style (having lived it himself, and spent the last 12 years researching it for...
I tried watching this last night and I got like 12 minutes in before I couldn’t stand hearing Simon anymore and I gave up 😂
@bigelow_ Great write-up and your OCBD saved search yielded some great finds. Did you happen to have a saved search/recall which brands/cuts you searched for wool trousers (I see PRL/Corneliani/Brioni in your final roundup, wondering if any others) – thanks!
I used the same makers as the tailored jackets but set the search for pants instead. I think I also added PRL and Brooks Brothers.